Max_501 wrote:Long story short, many skiers try to ski challenging bumps before they have built a rock solid PMTS bpst. If you have that the line is largely irrelevant.
speedcontrol wrote:To ski the big and icy (frightful) eastern moguls I use absorption and extension to fly down zipper line (and to control speed) It is a different technique and requires a very good physical shape, but it is the fastest way to go down a mogul run (if this is what you are after).
SkierSynergy wrote:I can toss out a few comments on bumps.
First, if you want to ski the trough zipper-line, using the movements that you see competition bump skiers use, that is not PMTS technique. The movements are different and the recommended line would be different. In fact, competition bumps are artificially created for the line and technique that you see competition skiers using. With that said, here are a few comments on PMTS technique for bumps. At Mt. Hood and in S. America, I sometimes jump into the artificial bumps that are used for training and enjoy them, but it is clear that I am skiing them differently. I choose to ski them as I would real mountain bumps as encountered in all mountain skiing.
To make the connection to general skiing, let?s first think about two basic topics: rhythm of flexing/extending and tipping actions. There are more specific variations and tactical issues that can be addressed later.
In any basic turn, the release is the time when both legs are maximally flexed together and everything in the upper body is square. As the skis are put on edge, the inside foot is tipped to the LTE, the inside leg stays flexed (or increases flexion), and the stance leg extends and is stood on for balance. As tipping happens, the upper body counters in reaction to tip and face away from the direction of the turn. Let?s ignore pole plant issues for now.
For bumps this same pattern is used. In fact the bump facilitates all of these movements. The bump is your best friend. Head straight to the top of the bump. Flex both legs to absorb the bump and flatten the skis right on top of it. At this point, continue to flex new inside leg, lightening that ski. Tip the new inside ski to its LTE and carve that LTE high and hard down the other side of the bump. As this happens, the stance leg will easily extend a little further toward the trough. It extends and the skier stands on it for balance. The line then is an arced line down the side of the bump. Head to the next bump and do the same. Flex to flatten on top and tip high and hard down the other side.
The line is variable, but it tends to be carving along the far side of each bump with occasional high C transitions between the bumps when there is enough room. I can say more about variations and tactics later.
One thing that is nice with this approach is that the action of flexing to flatten (release the old turn) is the same as that which is used to absorb the bump. As the bump comes, you only have to think about flexing both legs to the top of the bump.
I usually start people going from bump to bump. Do a single lift and tip down a bump to a stop on the top of the next one in a flexed position. Then try linking two, then three, and so on.
A few extra comments.
We do not use the counter to do an unwinding pivot slip type of turn. Turning down the hill with your upper body at the beginning of the new turn does the same destructive things to your skiing in the bumps as it does in any other slopes/conditions.
In general, whether one hard carves with big angles or gently drifts down the bumps is not of big concern for me. There are effective ways to do both ? as long as the movement patterns are consistent with balance and carving. I can say more about this later if someone wants.
Hope this helps.
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